parks highway alaska Tirumala Link buses have two bus stands in Tirupathi: next to the main bus stand and outside the tra

If you re travelling around Andhra Pradesh during Ramadan (known locally as Ramzan), look out for the clay ovens called bhattis. You ll probably hear them before you see them. Men gather around, taking turns to vigorously pound haleem inside purpose-built structures. Come nightfall, the serious business of eating begins. The taste is worth the wait. In September 2010, this love of the dish was taken a step further, being patented as Hyderabadi haleem ; prohibited to be served under that name unless it meets the strict quality guidelines.

1 Sights Undavalli Cave Temples HINDU SITE (Indian/ foreigner 5/100; h8am-5.30pm) Four kilometres southwest of Vijayawada, these stunning cave temples cut a fi ne silhouette against the palm trees and rice paddies. Shrines are dedicated to the Trimurti Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva and one cave on the third level houses a huge, beautiful statue of reclining Vishnu while seated deities and animals stand guard out front. The caves, in their Hindu form, date to the 7th century, but they re thought to have been constructed for Buddhist monks 500 years earlier. Bus 301 ( 9, 20 minutes) goes here.

C Courses Dhamma parks highway alaska Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation parks highway alaska Centre; %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers intensive 10-day vipassana meditation courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.

Tirumala parks highway alaska Link buses have two bus stands in Tirupathi: next to the main bus stand and outside the train station. The scenic 18km trip to Tirumala takes one hour ( 54 return); if you don t mind heights, sit on the left side for views. A prepaid taxi is 350.