Only a couple of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; ferry milwaukee h8am-5pm), 14km west of Tirupathi. Both the Rani Mahal and the Raja Mahal, which houses a small museum (h10am-5pm Sat-Thu), were constructed under Vijayanagar rule and resemble structures in Hampi s Royal Centre. There s a nightly sound-and-light show (admission 35; h8pm Mar-Oct, 7.30pm Nov-Feb), narrated by Bollywood great Amitabh Bachchan. Buses for Chandragiri ( 10) leave Tirupathi bus station every half-hour. ferry milwaukee An autorickshaw is 200 return.
5 Eating Lotus Food City INDIAN $$ (www.lotusthefoodcity.com; Seethanagaram; mains 80-150) Set up by APTDC, this food complex has a lovely spot on the Krishna River where you can dine in or outdoors looking out to the shimmering water.
Sankranti (Jan, statewide) This important Telugu festival marks the end of harvest season. Kite-flying abounds, women decorate their doorsteps with colourful kolams (or rangolis rice-flour designs), and men decorate cattle with bells and fresh horn paint.
the Park hotel, out the back are tables in the sand on the edge of the beach where you can indulge in delicious spicy fried fish ( 120) and tiger prawns ( 160). It s also a great spot for a cold beer with ocean views and a big outdoor screen. It s an overwhelmingly male clientele, but isn t seedy like some Indian bars.
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