kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited art isle pilgrimage art isle centres: on average, 40,000 pilgrims come each day (the total often exceeds 100,000), and darshan (deity-viewing) runs 24/7. Temple staff alone number 12,000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD; %2277777; www.tirumala.org) brilliantly administers the crowds. As a result, although the throngs can be overwhelming, art isle a sense of order, serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfi lling, even if you re not a pilgrim.
C Courses art isle Dhamma Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation Centre; art isle %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers intensive 10-day vipassana meditation courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.
Submarine Museum MUSEUM ( Beach Rd, adult/child 25/15; h2-8.30pm Tue- Sat, 10am-12.30pm art isle & 2-8.30pm Sun) A fascinating opportunity to look inside the 91m-long Indian navy submarine. The soviet-built Kursura saw battle in 1971 during the Liberation War, (which saw India side with East Pakistan in their struggle for independence from Pakistan resulting in the birth of Bangladesh) and, exploring within, you ll find a fantastic jumble of knobs, switches, wires, valves, gauges, nuts, bolts and dials.
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