Legends about the hill itself and the surrounding area appear in the Puranas, and the temple s history may date back 2000 years. The main temple is an atmospheric place, though you ll be pressed between hundreds of devotees when you see it. The inner sanctum itself is dark and magical; it smells of incense, resonates with chanting and may make you religious. There, Venkateshwara sits gloriously on his throne, inspiring bliss and love among his visitors. You ll have a moment to make a wish and then you ll be shoved out again. Don t forget to collect your delicious ladoo (sweet made of fl our, sugar, raisins and nuts) from the counter.
The old beach-resort vibe exists despite the fact that Vizag is Andhra Pradesh s second-largest city, famous for shipbuilding, jacksonville ferry steel manufacturing and now, call centres, software and film production. It s a big, dusty city, but it s surrounded by little jacksonville ferry gems:
Nagarjuna Resort HOTEL $ (%08642-242471; r from 750; a) The most convenient place to stay, across the road from the boat launch. It has spacious, slightly shabby rooms with geysers, balconies and good views.
Vizag s train station is on the western edge of town, near the port. Visakhapatnam Junction station is on the Kolkata-Chennai line. The overnight Coromandel Express (sleeper/3AC/2AC 333/881/1199, 13 hours) is the fastest of the five daily trains running to Kolkata. Heading south, it goes to Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 310/817/1112, 14 hours). Frequent trains head to Vijayawada including 2717, the Ratnachalam Express (2nd-class/chair 108/477).
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