New Andhra Hotel INDIAN $ (Sree Kanya Lodge, Bowdara Rd; mains 25-75; h11am-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) An unassuming little place with really good, really hot Andhra dishes. Meals ( 50/130 for veg/ non-veg) and biryani are top-notch.
The bus stand has a helpful enquiry desk (%2522200). Frequent services run to Hyderabad (deluxe/Volvo 193/375, six to seven hours), Amaravathi ( 38, two hours), Warangal (deluxe 180, 5 hours) and Visakhapatnam (deluxe/Volvo 270/540, nine hours).
Legends about the hill itself and the surrounding area appear in the Puranas, and the temple s history may date back 2000 years. The main temple is an atmospheric place, though you ll be pressed east river ferry between hundreds of devotees when you see it. The inner sanctum itself is dark and magical; it smells of incense, resonates with chanting and may make you religious. There, Venkateshwara sits gloriously on his throne, inspiring bliss and love among his visitors. You ll have a moment to make a wish and then you ll be shoved out again. Don t forget east river ferry to collect your delicious ladoo (sweet made of fl our, sugar, raisins and nuts) from the counter.
HEH the Nizam s Museum east river ferry MUSEUM (Purani east river ferry Haveli; Map p900; adult/student 70/15, camera 150; h10am-5pm Sat-Thu) The 16th-century Purani Haveli was home of the sixth nizam, Fath Jang Mahbub Ali Khan (r 1869 1911), rumoured to have never worn the same garment twice. His 72m-long, two-storey Burmese teak wardrobe, the first room you ll enter, certainly seems to substantiate the claim. In the palace s former servants east river ferry quarters are personal effects of the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan (1886 1967) and gifts from his Silver Jubilee, lavish pieces that include an art deco silver letterbox collection. The museum s guides do an excellent job putting it all in context.
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