ered in 1926 by archaeologist AR Saraswathi in the adjacent valley. In 1953, when it became known that a massive hydroelectric project would soon create the Nagarjuna Sagar reservoir, flooding the area, a six-year excavation was launched to unearth the area s many Buddhist ruins: stupas, viharas (monasteries), chaitya-grihas (assembly halls with stupas) and mandapas (pillared pavilions), as well as some outstanding examples of white-marble depictions of the Buddha s life. The finds were reassembled on Nagarjunakonda.
Most buses and trains will stop en route at Bhongir, 60km from Hyderabad. It s worth jumping down for a couple of hours to climb the fantastical-looking 12th-century Chalukyan hill fort (admission 3; h9am6pm). Looking like a gargantuan stone egg, the hill is mostly ringed by stairs.
Launches ( 90, one hour) depart from Vijayapuri, on the banks of Nagarjuna Sagar, at 9.30am, 11am and 1.30pm, and stay for one hour. To do the place justice, take the morning launch out and the afternoon one back. Extra morning launches usually run on weekends and holidays. Fisherman out in their dish-shaped ferry tale coracle boats provide good photographic material.
About 65km northeast of Warangal, the stunning Ramappa Temple (h6am-6.30pm), built in 1234, is an attractive example of Kakatiya architecture, although it was clearly influenced by Chalukya and Hoysala ferry tale styles. Its pillars are ornately carved and its eaves shelter fine statues of female forms.
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