vashon water taxi Only a couple of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; h8am-5pm), 1

Only a couple of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; vashon water taxi h8am-5pm), 14km west of Tirupathi. Both the Rani Mahal and the Raja Mahal, which houses a small museum (h10am-5pm Sat-Thu), were constructed under Vijayanagar rule and resemble structures in Hampi s Royal Centre. There s a nightly sound-and-light show (admission 35; h8pm Mar-Oct, 7.30pm Nov-Feb), narrated by Bollywood great Amitabh Bachchan. Buses for Chandragiri ( 10) leave Tirupathi bus station every half-hour. An autorickshaw is 200 return.

To get here, take a Puttaparthi-Bengaluru bus and alight at Kodakonda Checkpost ( 40). From there, take a Hindupur-bound bus ( 14) or an autorickshaw ( 250 return) to Lepakshi. A private car from Puttaparthi is 1000. You can also go from Hindupur, a main stop on the Puttaparthi-Bengaluru train line, which has a few hotels. It s 11km from the temple.

Ofen BAKERY $$ (Map p902; www.theofen.com; Rd No 10; desserts 15-110; h11am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat & Sun) Two words: Linzer torte. Scrumptious vashon water taxi desserts (some vegan and sugar-free), fresh-baked bread and comfort food like sandwiches and pasta ( 90 to 250). Does all-day vashon water taxi continental breakfasts.