considered amalgamation with Pakistan and then opted for sovereignty. Tensions between Muslims and Hindus increased, however, and military intervention saw Hyderabad join the Indian union in 1948. Sights smyril line Charminar MONUMENT (Four Towers; Map p900; Indian/foreigner 5/100; h9am-5.30pm) Hyderabad s principal landmark was built by Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah in 1591 to commemorate smyril line the founding of Hyderabad and the end of epidemics caused by Golconda s water shortage. The dramatic four-column, 56m high and 30m wide structure has four arches facing smyril line the cardinal points. Minarets smyril line sit atop each column. The 2nd floor, home to Hyderabad smyril line s oldest mosque, and upper columns are not usually open to the public, but you can try your luck with the man with the key. The structure is illuminated from 7pm to 9pm.
New Andhra Hotel INDIAN $ (Sree Kanya Lodge, smyril line Bowdara Rd; mains 25-75; h11am-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) An unassuming little place with really good, really hot Andhra dishes. Meals ( 50/130 for veg/ non-veg) and biryani are top-notch.
Once the Andhran capital and a significant Buddhist centre, Amaravathi is India s biggest stupa (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h8am6pm), measuring 27m high and constructed in the 3rd century BC, when Emperor Ashoka sent monks south to spread the Buddha s teaching. Located 60km west of Vijayawada, all that remains are a mound and some stones, but the nearby museum (admission 5; h8am-5pm) has a small replica of the stupa, with its intricately carved pillars, marble- surfaced dome and carvings of scenes from the Buddha s life (no photography allowed in the museum). In the courtyard is a reconstruction of part of the surrounding gateway, which gives you an idea of the stupa s massive scale. It s worth the trip, but many of Amaravathi s best sculptures are in London s British Museum and Chennai s Government Museum in Tamil Nadu.
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