isle of que FPaigah Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; Phisalbanda, Santoshnagar; h10am5pm Sat-Thu) The aristocratic Pai

FPaigah Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; Phisalbanda, Santoshnagar; h10am5pm Sat-Thu) The aristocratic Paigah family, isle of que purportedly descendents of the second Caliph of Islam, were fierce loyalists of the nizams, serving as statespeople, philanthropists and generals under and alongside them. The Paigahs necropolis, tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood 4km southeast of Charminar, is a small compound of exquisite mausoleums made of marble from Agra and lime stucco. The main complex contains 27 tombs with intricate inlay work, surrounded by delicately carved walls and canopies, stunning filigree screens with geometric patterning and, overhead, tall, graceful isle of que turrets. The tombs are down a small lane across from Owasi Hospital. Look for the Preston Junior College sign. The Paigah Tombs ( 20) booklet is sold at the AP State Museum, but not here.

Vast dormitories (beds free) and guest- houses (r 50-2500) surround the temple in Tirumala, but these are intended for pilgrims. To stay, check in at the Central Reception Offi ce. Huge dining halls (meals free) serve thousands of pilgrims daily. Veg restaurants also serve meals for 15. The following places are all in Tirupathi.

Fusion 9 CONTINENTAL $$$ (Map p902; %65577722; Rd No 1; mains 325-425; h12-3.30pm & 7-11pm) Soft lighting and cosy decor set off pan-fried Norwegian salmon ( 650), lamb cutlets isle of que with rosemary and crispy potatoes ( 395), or pork chops ( 425). One of the best international menus in town also features (less expensive) Mexican, Thai, pizzas and veg dishes, and lots of imported liquor.

898 ANDHRA PRADESH Kalakriti ART GALLERY (Map p 902 ; www.kalakriti.in; Rd No 10, Banjara Hills; h11am-7pm) Shrishti ART GALLERY (www.shrishtiart.com; Rd No 15, Jubilee Hills; h11am-7pm) C Courses Vipassana International Meditation Centre BUDDHIST MEDITATION (Dhamma Khetta; %24240290; www.khetta. dhamma.org; Nagarjuna Sagar Rd, 12.6km) The Vipassana International Meditation Centre has intensive 10-day meditation courses in its peaceful grounds 20km outside the city. Apply online or at the Hyderabad office (%24732569). A shuttle runs to/from Hyderabad isle of que on the fi rst and last day of courses. T Tours APTDC (p 906 ) tours the city ( 270), Ramoji Film City ( 600), Nagarjuna Sagar (weekends, 450) and Tirupathi/Tirumala (three days, 1950). The Sound & Light tour ( 200) takes in Hitec City, the botanic gardens and Golconda Fort s sound-and-light show, but you may spend much of it in traffi c. Tours leave from APTDC s Secunderabad branch (Map p 896 ) : : : : : : : 66 66 66 66 66 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 6 6 66 66 66 66 66 # R R # # # # # # # # # #