magnetic island Andhra Pradesh won t hit you over the head with its attractions. It doesn t brag about its temples o

Andhra Pradesh won t hit you over the head with its attractions. It doesn t brag about its temples or its colourful magnetic island history. It s forgotten most of its palaces and royal architecture you ll have to purposely magnetic island seek them out.

The Hill of Nagarjuna, 150km southeast of Hyderabad, is a peaceful island in the middle of the Nagarjuna dam peppered with ancient Buddhist structures. From the 3rd century BC until the 4th century AD, the Krishna River valley was home to powerful empires that supported the sangha (Buddhist community of monks and nuns), including the Ikshvakus, whose capital was Nagarjunakonda. It s estimated that this area alone had 30 monasteries.

sandra seacat The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Hyderabad s new Rajiv Gandhi International Airport is the main arrival point. sandra seacat The main train stations are Nampally and Secunderabad in Hyderabad; Imlibun is the interstate bus station. Visakhaptnam has monthly ferries leaving to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Fast Facts

Just west of the bridge is the spectacular Osmania General Hospital (Map p900), on the north side, and, on the south, sandra seacat the High Court (Map p900) and Government City College (Map p900), all built under the seventh nizam in the Indo-Saracenic style.

1 Sights Undavalli Cave Temples HINDU SITE (Indian/ foreigner 5/100; h8am-5.30pm) Four kilometres southwest of Vijayawada, these stunning cave temples cut a fi ne silhouette against the palm trees and rice paddies. Shrines are dedicated to the Trimurti Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva and one cave on the third level houses a huge, beautiful statue of reclining Vishnu while seated deities and animals stand guard out front. The caves, in their Hindu form, date to the 7th century, but they re thought to have been constructed for Buddhist monks 500 years earlier. Bus 301 ( 9, 20 minutes) goes here.

The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden, where temple sculptures from around the state (dating from the 3rd century AD) line shady paths, is lovely.

new york city ferry FPaigah Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; Phisalbanda, Santoshnagar; h10am5pm Sat-Thu) The aristocratic Pai

Meena Bazar CLOTHING (Map p898; www.meenabazarhyd.co.in; Tilak Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Gorgeous saris, salwar (trouser) suits and fabrics new york city ferry at fixed prices. Also has a branch in Banjara Hills (Map p902).

# # # # f # # # SAIFABAD GUNFOUNDRY BASHIRBAGH HIMAYATHNAGAR HILL FORT HYDERGUDA KOTI HYDERABAD NAMPALLY Hussain Sagar Nizam College Grounds Lumbini Park Indira Gandhi Park Public Gardens NTR Gardens Bashirbagh Flyover Mukarramjahi Rd Public Gardens Rd Tankbund Rd Lakdi-ka-pulRd Chapel Rd Nampally StationRd Hill Fort Rd Raja Reddy Marg ChiragAli La JigarRd Secretariat Rd Indira new york city ferry Park Rd NTR Marg Koti Main Rd JNRd Himayathnagar Rd Tilak Rd King KothiRd Lower Tankbund Rd Bank St Abids Rd Ashok Nagar Rd Narayanguda Rd Sultan Bazar Rd Hyderguda Main Rd (Old MLA Quarters Rd) Naubat Pahar Kalabhad Hyderabad (Nampally) Train Station Prasad's Multiplex 2 31 30 28 6 13 12 15 14 17 18 19 16 27 1 5 7 3 4 8 10 11 9 23 20 24 25 22 21 29 26 5

FPaigah Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; Phisalbanda, Santoshnagar; h10am5pm Sat-Thu) The aristocratic Paigah family, purportedly descendents of the second Caliph of Islam, were fierce loyalists of the nizams, serving as statespeople, philanthropists and generals under and alongside them. The Paigahs necropolis, tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood 4km southeast of Charminar, is a small compound of exquisite mausoleums made of marble from Agra and lime stucco. new york city ferry The main complex contains 27 tombs with intricate inlay work, surrounded by delicately carved walls and canopies, stunning filigree screens new york city ferry with geometric patterning and, overhead, tall, graceful turrets. The tombs are down a small lane across from Owasi Hospital. Look for the Preston Junior College sign. The Paigah new york city ferry Tombs ( 20) booklet is sold at the AP State Museum, but not here.

From the 2nd century BC the Satavahana empire, also known as the Andhras, reigned throughout the Deccan plateau. It evolved from the Andhra people, whose presence in southern India may date back to 1000 BC. The Buddha s teaching took root here early on, and in the 3rd century BC the Andhras fully embraced it, building huge edifices in its honour. In the coming centuries, the Andhras would develop a fl ourishing civilisation that extended from the west to the east coasts of South India.

savannah ferry C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana Centre; %09440139329; www.nagajjuna.

Secunderabad Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 savannah ferry Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis savannah ferry Restaurant.B2 Secunderabad savannah ferry Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 savannah ferry Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis Restaurant.B2

Good what s on guides include Channel 6 (www.channel6magazine.com), GO Hyderabad savannah ferry and City Info. The juiciest is Wow! Hyderabad (www.wowhyderabad.com; 25). The Deccan Chronicle is a good local paper; its Hyderabad savannah ferry Chronicle insert has info on happenings.

Vijayawada is on the main Chenna Kolkata and Chennai Delhi railway lines. The daily Coromandel Express (2841) runs to Chennai savannah ferry (sleeper/3AC/2AC 214/544/732, seven hours) and, the other way, to Kolkata (2842; sleeper/3AC/2AC 395/1054/1440, 20 hours). Speedy Rajdhani (Thursday and Saturday) and Jan Shatabdi (daily except Tuesday) trains also ply the Vijayawada Chennai route. Trains galore run to Hyderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 190/478/639, 6 hours) and Tirupathi (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The computerised advance-booking offi ce (%enquiry 2577775, reservations 2578955; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, till 2pm Sun) is in the basement.

C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana savannah ferry Centre; %09440139329; savannah ferry www.nagajjuna.dhamma.org; Hill Colony) Keeping savannah ferry the legacy of Buddhism alive in the region, this centre offers intensive 10-day meditation courses in the grounds overlooking Nagarjuna Sagar. Courses are run on a donation basis.

ferry to at&t park 907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10

Only a couple of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; h8am-5pm), 14km west of Tirupathi. Both the Rani Mahal and the Raja Mahal, which houses a small museum (h10am-5pm Sat-Thu), were constructed under Vijayanagar rule and resemble structures in Hampi s Royal Centre. There s a nightly sound-and-light show (admission 35; h8pm Mar-Oct, 7.30pm Nov-Feb), narrated by Bollywood great Amitabh Bachchan. Buses for Chandragiri ( 10) leave Tirupathi bus station every half-hour. An autorickshaw is 200 return.

907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION ferry to at&t park (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10 7 (evening) Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet 280 9 2 Mumbai 550-985 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 6 hourly Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly

Walking TTD has constructed probably the best footpath in India for pilgrims to walk up to Tirumala. It s about 15km from Tirupathi and takes four to six hours. Leave your luggage at the toll gate at Alipiri near the Hanuman statue. It will be transported free to the reception centre. At the time of research walking was prohibited from 4pm to 6am due to several leopard ferry to at&t park attacks on pilgrims. There are shady rest points along the way, and a few canteens.

fast from 1690/1790; aW) Under new management, the former budget Jaya International has reinvented ferry to at&t park itself as a smart and modern business hotel. Rooms are great value, comfortable and ultramodern. Its downside is the scungy hallways.

shelldock isle Secunderabad Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradi

Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC; %24-hr info 23450444; www.aptdc.in; h7am-8.30pm) Bashirbagh (Map p898 ; %23298456; NSF Shakar Bhavan, opposite Police Control Room); Secunderabad (Map p896 ; %27893100; Yatri Nivas Hotel, Sardar Patel Rd); Tankbund Rd (Map p898 ; %65581555; h10.30am-5pm) Organises tours.

Secunderabad Sleeping shelldock isle 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 shelldock isle 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis Restaurant.B2 Secunderabad shelldock isle Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis Restaurant.B2

seastreak schedule The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden

Minerva Grand HOTEL $$$ (Map p 896 ; %66117373; www.minervagrand.com; SD Rd, Secunderabad; s/d incl breakfast seastreak schedule from 4000 /4400; aiW) It s rare to find a hotel that has genuine style; this place has nailed it. Standard rooms (one wheelchair-accessible) have striking deep-fuchsia walls, white furniture, tasselled bedspreads and piles of pillows. More-expensive rooms are also bold in design, and all rooms have hardwood floors, gentle lighting and sleek, spacious bathrooms. A diamond in the rough of Sarojini Devi Rd.

The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden, where temple sculptures from around the state (dating from the 3rd century AD) line shady paths, is lovely.