mason county campground Secunderabad Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradi

Secunderabad Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis Restaurant.B2 mason county campground Secunderabad mason county campground Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis Restaurant.B2

# # SECUNDERABADMARREDPALLYHussainSagarSanjiraiahPark Parade Grounds SD Rd Sardar Patel (SP) Rd C l u b R d StMarysRd Rashtrapati Rd WestMarredpallyRd Necklace Rd W ellingtonRd BoyigudaRd Entrenc hmentRd Kavadigu d a RdSikhVillage Rd SarojiniDevi(SD)Rd MG Rd Park L a St No 16 S P R d MinisterRdSubha s h R d PicketRd Sanjiraiah ParkTrain Station James St Train Station Secunderabad Train Station American mason county campground Consulate Jubilee Bus Station Mahankali Temple APTDC SpanishMosque 5 3 4 1 2 31CBC2312BAADD ANDHRA PRADESH

cumberland island ferry schedule Warangal, Hanamkonda and Kazhipet are sister towns. The Warangal train station and bus stand are opp

trophobic metal cages ringing the temple. Quick darshan tickets ( 300) are recommended, and will get you through the queue faster, though you ll still have to brave the gauntlet of the cage, which is part of the fun, kind of Upon entry you ll also have to sign a form declaring your support of Lord Vishnu.

Warangal, Hanamkonda and Kazhipet are sister towns. The Warangal train station and bus stand are opposite each other, and the post office and police station are on Station Rd. Main Rd connects Warangal and Hanamkonda. It can be easily visited as a day trip.

Touch BAR (Map p902; %23542422; Trendset Towers, Rd No 2, Banjara Hills); h7pm-midnight Wed, Sat & Sun) Touch is all about image. It s a stylish, comfy place to watch the beautiful people. Also has an ice bar with temperatures set at -23.

Autorickshaw Flag fall is 12 for the first kilometre, then 7 for each additional kilometre. Between cumberland island ferry schedule 10pm and 5am a 50% surcharge applies. Unfortunately, the new electronic meters often don t work and lots of drivers won t use them: be prepared to negotiate.

sean ferry Launches ( 90, one hour) depart from Vijayapuri, on the banks of Nagarjuna Sagar, at 9.30am, 11am an

Launches ( 90, one hour) depart from Vijayapuri, on the banks of Nagarjuna Sagar, at 9.30am, 11am and 1.30pm, and stay for one hour. To do the place justice, take the morning launch out and the afternoon one back. Extra morning launches usually run on weekends and holidays. Fisherman out in their dish-shaped coracle boats provide good photographic material.

From the 2nd century BC the Satavahana empire, also known as the Andhras, sean ferry reigned throughout the Deccan plateau. It evolved from the Andhra people, whose presence in southern India may date back to 1000 BC. The Buddha s teaching took root here early on, and in the 3rd century BC the Andhras fully embraced it, building huge edifices in its honour. In the coming centuries, the Andhras would develop a fl ourishing civilisation that extended from the west to the east coasts of South India.

jetfoil Warangal, Hanamkonda and Kazhipet are sister towns. The Warangal train station and bus stand are opp

Vizag s well-organised RTC Complex (%2746400) has frequent bus services to Vijayawada (deluxe/Volvo 250/530, eight/seven hours) and, in the afternoon, Hyderabad ( superluxury / Volvo 470/870, 14/12 hours).

Warangal, Hanamkonda and Kazhipet are sister towns. The Warangal jetfoil train station and bus stand are opposite each other, and the post office and police station are on Station Rd. Main Rd connects Warangal and Hanamkonda. jetfoil It can be easily visited as a day trip.

trophobic metal cages ringing the temple. Quick darshan tickets ( 300) are recommended, and will get you through the queue faster, though you ll still have to brave the gauntlet of the cage, which is part of the fun, kind of Upon entry you ll also have to sign a form declaring your support jetfoil of Lord Vishnu.

port townsend ferry ered in 1926 by archaeologist AR Saraswathi in the adjacent valley. In 1953, when it became known th

Down the hill and 3km to the right is the small Siddheshwara Temple. The Bhadrakali Temple, featuring a stone statue port townsend ferry of Kali seated with a weapon in each of her eight hands, is high on a hill between Hanamkonda and Warangal.

Only a couple of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; h8am-5pm), 14km west of Tirupathi. Both the Rani Mahal and the Raja Mahal, which houses a small museum (h10am-5pm Sat-Thu), were constructed under Vijayanagar rule and resemble structures in Hampi s Royal Centre. There s a nightly sound-and-light show (admission 35; h8pm Mar-Oct, port townsend ferry 7.30pm Nov-Feb), narrated by Bollywood great Amitabh Bachchan. port townsend ferry Buses for Chandragiri ( 10) leave Tirupathi bus station every half-hour. An autorickshaw is 200 return. port townsend ferry

So come, but only if you re prepared to dig for the jewels to be found here. Keep your eyes open and your curiosity sharp and you re bound to find something that even Andhrans, in their modesty, hadn t thought to mention.

ered in 1926 by archaeologist AR Saraswathi in the adjacent valley. In 1953, when it became port townsend ferry known that a massive hydroelectric project would soon create the Nagarjuna port townsend ferry Sagar reservoir, flooding the area, a six-year excavation was launched to unearth the area s many Buddhist ruins: stupas, viharas (monasteries), chaitya-grihas (assembly halls with stupas) and mandapas (pillared pavilions), as well as some outstanding examples of white-marble depictions of the Buddha s life. The finds were reassembled on Nagarjunakonda.

block island ny In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderaba

111111111111111111HussainSagarRdNo 3 TankbundRd SP Rd BANJARAHILLSSECUNDERABADABIDSPATTHARGATTINAMPALLYSee Abids Area Map (p898) block island ny See Banjara Hills Map (p902) See Patthagatti Area Map (p900) See Secunderbad Map (p896) Hyderabad & Secunderabad 0 2 km 0 1 miles e To Nagarjunar Sagar (150km) To Golconda Fort (3km); Qutb Shahi Tombs (4.5km) To Ramoji Film City (12km) To Rajiv Gandhi International Airport (15km) To Taj Falaknuma (1km) jobs, wealth and posh lounges. Opulence, it would seem, is in this city s genes.

In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself as leader. The dynasty block island ny of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. block island ny Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, block island ny and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance of rare gems and minerals the world-famous Kohinoor diamond is from here furnished the nizams with enormous wealth. (William Dalrymple s White Mughals is a fascinating portrait of the city at this time.)

sean ferry Warangal was the capital of the Kakatiya kingdom, which covered the greater part of present-day Andh

trophobic metal cages ringing the temple. Quick darshan tickets ( 300) are recommended, and will get you through the queue faster, though you ll still have to brave the gauntlet of the cage, which is part of the fun, kind of Upon entry you ll also have to sign a form declaring your support of Lord Vishnu.

6 Mecca Masjid. A4 Transport 7 Osmania General Hospital. A2 13 Afzal Gunj Bus Stop.B2 8 Salar Jung Museum. B2 14 Koti Bus Station. B1 15 Mahatma Gandhi (Imlibun) Bus Eating Station. C1 9 Hotel Shadab. B3 Hotel Suhail HOTEL $ (Map p898; %24610299; www.hotel suhail.in; Troop Bazaar; sean ferry s/d/tr from 475/620/900; ai) If all budget hotels were like the Suhail, we d all be much better off. Staff are friendly and on top of it, the rooms are large and quiet, sean ferry have balconies and constant hot water. It s tucked away on an alley behind the main post offi ce and the Grand Hotel away from the Hyderabad bustle, but it s also unlit at night; some readers sean ferry find it sketchy.

111111111111111111HussainSagarRdNo 3 TankbundRd SP Rd BANJARAHILLSSECUNDERABADABIDSPATTHARGATTINAMPALLYSee Abids Area Map (p898) See Banjara Hills Map (p902) See Patthagatti Area Map (p900) See Secunderbad Map (p896) Hyderabad & Secunderabad 0 2 km 0 1 miles e To Nagarjunar Sagar (150km) To Golconda Fort (3km); Qutb Shahi Tombs (4.5km) To Ramoji Film City (12km) To Rajiv Gandhi International Airport (15km) sean ferry To Taj Falaknuma (1km) jobs, wealth and posh lounges. Opulence, it would seem, is in this city s genes.

Warangal was the capital of the Kakatiya kingdom, which covered the greater part of present-day sean ferry Andhra Pradesh from the late 12th to early 14th centuries until it was conquered by the Tughlaqs of Delhi. sean ferry The Hindu Kakatiyas sean ferry were great builders and patrons of Telugu literature and arts, and during their reign the Chalukyan style of temple architecture reached its pinnacle.

alaska canada highway Look for the 9m-long monolithic Nandi India s largest at the town s entrance. From here, you can see

Araku itself is a small dusty town, but its surroundings are beautiful. A bicycle is the perfect way to explore the countryside. You can hire a bicycle (per hour/day 50/250) alaska canada highway from Hill Resort Mayuri. It s best to check the security situation before heading out, with a reported Naxalite (members of an

Look for the 9m-long monolithic Nandi India s largest at the town s entrance. From here, you can see the temple s Naga-lingam (a phallic representation of Shiva) crowned alaska canada highway with a seven-headed cobra. The temple is known for its unfinished Kalyana Mandapam alaska canada highway (Marriage Hall), depicting alaska canada highway the wedding of Parvati and Shiva, and its Natyamandapa (Dance Hall), with carvings of dancing gods. The temple s most stunning features, though, are the Natyamandapa s ceiling frescoes.

Warangal is a major rail junction. Trains go regularly to Hyderabad (2nd class/chair 67/229, three hours), Vijayawada (2nd class/ chair 79/278, alaska canada highway four hours) and Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 277/723/979, 11 hours). Many trains go to Delhi daily.

sayville commons Mughal empire. In the 18th century the post-Mughal rulers in Hyderabad, known as nizams, retained re

# # # # # # # # # f SR NAGAR AMEERPET BANJARA HILLS SOMAJIGUDA MASAB TANK SAIFABAD Hussain Sagar Banjara Lake KBR Park Jalagam Vengala Rao Park Chacha Nehru Park Ameerpet Rd Rd No 3 Panjagutta Rd Lakdi-ka-pul Rd Mahavir Marg RdNo 1 Rd No 2 Greenlands Rd Rd No 14 YellareddygudaRd RdNo 5 Rd No 13 Rd No 7 Rd No 10 AmeerpetRd Rd No 12 Balkampet Rd YousufgudaMain sayville commons Rd Srinagar Colony Rd Necklace Rd Necklace Rd Train Station Khairatabad Train Station Begumpet Train Station Lakdikapul Train Station 20 19 18 12 14 5 10 6 9 8 15 17 2 13 11 1 16 7 3 4 Care Hospital 4

Mughal sayville commons empire. In the 18th century the post-Mughal rulers in Hyderabad, known as nizams, retained relative control as the British and French vied for trade, though their power gradually weakened. The region became part of independent India in 1947, and in 1956 the state of Andhra Pradesh, an amalgamation of Telugu-speaking areas plus the predominantly Urdu-speaking capital, was created.

FPaigah Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; Phisalbanda, Santoshnagar; h10am5pm Sat-Thu) The aristocratic Paigah family, purportedly descendents of the second Caliph of Islam, were fierce loyalists of the nizams, serving as statespeople, philanthropists and generals under and alongside them. The Paigahs necropolis, tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood 4km southeast of Charminar, is a small compound of exquisite mausoleums made of marble from Agra and lime stucco. The main complex contains 27 tombs with intricate inlay work, surrounded by delicately carved walls and canopies, stunning filigree screens with geometric patterning and, overhead, tall, graceful turrets. The tombs are down a small lane across sayville commons from Owasi Hospital. Look for the Preston Junior College sign. The Paigah Tombs ( 20) booklet is sold at the AP State Museum, but not here.

Excess Club BAR (%23542422; Novotel, Madhavpur; h7pm-2am Tue-Sun) Set over a huge space, Excess sayville commons was the current most happening place; open the latest, the best DJs, but the furthest away past Hitech City.

seward highway alaska Just around the corner from Big Bazaar, this outpost of the fabulous Minerva chain has great North a

Just around the corner from Big Bazaar, this outpost of the fabulous Minerva chain has great North and South Indian, including top- notch dosas ( 33 to 58). Its rava masala seward highway alaska dosa (made with semolina) is the best thing ever.

C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana Centre; %09440139329; www.nagajjuna.dhamma.org; Hill Colony) Keeping the legacy of Buddhism alive in the region, this centre offers intensive 10-day meditation courses in the grounds overlooking Nagarjuna Sagar. Courses are run on a donation basis.

Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once the seat of the powerful and wealthy Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties, the city has seen centuries of great prosperity and innovation. Today, the Old City is full of centuries-old Islamic monuments and even older charms. In fact, the whole city is laced with architectural gems: ornate tombs, mosques, palaces seward highway alaska and homes from the past are tucked away, faded and enchanting, in corners all over town. Keep your eyes open.

water taxi beach governors island Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment

B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) Machilipatnam (Madras) Hanamkonda Bhongir Bengaluru Ramatirtham Guntupalli Bhattiprolu Chandavaram Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli Penukonda Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai water taxi beach governors island Bidar Nanded Kakanida (Bangalore) Bheemunipatnam Anantapur water taxi beach governors island Puttaparthi Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle Vizianagaram Nellore Kurnool Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole Guntur Tirupathi Chittoor Secunderabad Warangal Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri Sagar Nagarjuna River Godavari Araku Valley CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad water taxi beach governors island 0 200 km 0 100 miles B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) Machilipatnam water taxi beach governors island (Madras) Hanamkonda Bhongir Bengaluru Ramatirtham Guntupalli water taxi beach governors island Bhattiprolu Chandavaram water taxi beach governors island Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli Penukonda Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai Bidar Nanded Kakanida (Bangalore) Bheemunipatnam Anantapur Puttaparthi Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle Vizianagaram Nellore Kurnool Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole Guntur Tirupathi Chittoor Secunderabad Warangal Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri Sagar Nagarjuna River Godavari Araku Valley water taxi beach governors island CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad 0 200 km 0 100 miles

Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once the seat of the powerful and wealthy Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties, the city has seen centuries of great prosperity and innovation. Today, the Old City is full of centuries-old Islamic monuments and even older charms. In fact, the whole city is laced with architectural gems: ornate tombs, mosques, palaces and homes from the past are tucked away, faded and enchanting, in corners all over town. Keep your eyes open.

Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. water taxi beach governors island B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 water taxi beach governors island 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. water taxi beach governors island B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. (see 12) Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. water taxi beach governors island A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo water taxi beach governors island Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini water taxi beach governors island Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. water taxi beach governors island C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating 27 Boats to Buddha water taxi beach governors island Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. (see 12)

seattle ferry terminal address Look for the 9m-long monolithic Nandi India s largest at the town s entrance. From here, you can see

India Tourism (Government of India; Map p 898; %23261360, seattle ferry terminal address 23260770; Netaji Bhavan, Himayathnagar seattle ferry terminal address Rd; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Very helpful for information on Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and beyond.

Look for the 9m-long monolithic Nandi India s largest at the town s entrance. From here, you can see the temple s Naga-lingam (a phallic representation of Shiva) crowned with a seven-headed cobra. The temple is known for its unfinished Kalyana Mandapam (Marriage Hall), depicting the wedding of Parvati seattle ferry terminal address and Shiva, and its Natyamandapa (Dance Hall), with carvings of dancing gods. The temple s most stunning features, though, are the Natyamandapa s ceiling frescoes.

channel crossing trophobic metal cages ringing the temple. Quick darshan tickets ( 300) are recommended, and will get

MMTS trains (www.mmts.co.in) are convenient, channel crossing particularly for the three main train stations. There are two main lines: Hyderabad (Nampally) to Lingampalli (northwest of Banjara Hills) has 11 stops, including channel crossing Lakdikapul, Khairatabad, Necklace Rd, Begumpet and Hitec City; the Falaknuma (south of Old City) to Secunderabad line passes by Yakutpura, Dabirpura, Malakpet and Kachiguda among others. Trains will be labelled with their start and end point: HL is Hyderabad Lingampalli, FS is Falaknuma Secunderabad and so on. Trains are efficient but only run every 30 to 40 minutes. Tickets are 3 to 10.

trophobic metal cages ringing the temple. Quick darshan tickets ( 300) are recommended, channel crossing and will get you through the queue faster, though you ll still have to brave the gauntlet channel crossing of the cage, which is part of the fun, kind of Upon entry you ll also have to sign a form declaring your support of Lord Vishnu.

The citadel is built on a granite hill, 120m high and surrounded by crenellated ramparts constructed from large masonry blocks. The massive gates were studded with iron spikes to obstruct war elephants. Outside the citadel there stands another crenellated rampart, with a perimeter of 11km, and yet another wall beyond this. At Naya Quila (new fort), adjacent to the golf course, you can find a magnifi cent 400-year-old baobab tree (Hathiyan elephant tree), with a circumference of 25m, said to be planted by seedlings carried by African regiments from Abyssiania. Exploring the crumbling rampart in the area you ll find cannons strewn channel crossing about (some with beautiful inscriptions) and great views of the fort and tombs.

Forty kilometres southwest of Vizag is this stunning Buddhist complex (admission free; h9am-6pm), better known by the name of its two hills, Bojjannakonda and Lingalakonda. Used by monks from the 1st to 9th centuries AD (p910), the hills are covered with rock-cut

newburgh ferry Hyderabad has one of the world s largest freestanding stone Buddha statues (Map p 898 ), completed i

Angeethi PUNJABI $$ (Map p902; 7th fl, Reliance Classic Bldg, Rd No 1; mains 180-290; hnoon-3.30pm & 7-11pm) newburgh ferry Designed to resemble an old Punjabi newburgh ferry dhaba (snack bar), jazzed up with vintage Bollywood posters on the walls, newburgh ferry Angeethi newburgh ferry does outstanding North Indian and Punjabi dishes, such as corn methi malai (sweet-corn stew with fenugreek leaves; 185).

Vizag s train station is on the western edge of town, near the port. Visakhapatnam Junction station is on the Kolkata-Chennai line. The overnight Coromandel Express (sleeper/3AC/2AC 333/881/1199, 13 hours) is the fastest of the five daily trains running to Kolkata. Heading south, it goes to Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 310/817/1112, 14 hours). Frequent trains head to Vijayawada including 2717, the Ratnachalam Express (2nd-class/chair 108/477).

Visit Visakhapatnam also called Vizag (vie-zag) during the holiday season and you ll see domestic tourism in rare form: balloons, fairy floss (cotton candy) and, of course, weddings! But the crowds only enhance the area s kitschy coasts. The rundown boardwalk along Ramakrishna Beach has lots of spunk, and the beach at nearby Rushikonda is Andhra s best.

Hyderabad has one of the world s largest freestanding stone Buddha statues (Map p 898 ), completed in 1990 after five years of work. However, when the 17.5m-high, 350-tonne monolith was being ferried to its place in the Hussain Sagar, the barge sank. Fortunately, the statue was raised undamaged in 1992 and is now on a plinth in the middle of the lake. It s a magnificent sight when alit at night.

wightlink Down the hill and 3km to the right is the small Siddheshwara Temple. The Bhadrakali Temple, featurin

Around 36km east of Tirupathi, Sri Kalahasti is known for its important wightlink Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple and for being, along with Machilipatnam near Vijayawada, a centre for the ancient art of kalamkari. These paintings are made with natural ingredients: the cotton is primed with myrabalam (resin) and cow s milk; figures are drawn with a pointed bamboo stick dipped in fermented jaggery and water; and the dyes are made from cow dung, ground seeds, plants and flowers. You can see the artists at work in the Agraharam neighbourhood, 2.5km from the bus stand. Sri Vijayalakshmi Fine Kalamkari Arts (%9441138380; door No 15890) is an old family business with 40 artists.

Down the hill and 3km to the right is the small Siddheshwara Temple. The Bhadrakali Temple, featuring a stone statue of Kali seated with a weapon in each of her eight hands, is high on a hill between Hanamkonda and Warangal.

Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum MUSEUM (Map p902; Masab Tank; Indian/foreigner 10/100; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) Andhra Pradesh s 33 tribal groups, based mostly in the northeastern part of the state, comprise several

parks highway alaska Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC; %24-hr info 23450444; www.aptdc.in; h7am-8.30

The Vizag area s natural harbours have long been conducive to dropping anchor, which helped monks from Sri Lanka, China and Tibet come here to learn and practice parks highway alaska meditation. Bavikonda (h9am-6pm) and Thotlakonda (h10am-3pm) were popular hilltop monasteries on the coast that hosted up to 150 monks at a time with the help of massive rainwater tanks and, at Thotlakonda, a natural spring.

1 Sights Undavalli Cave Temples HINDU SITE (Indian/ foreigner 5/100; h8am-5.30pm) Four kilometres parks highway alaska southwest of Vijayawada, these stunning cave temples cut a fi ne silhouette against the palm trees and rice paddies. Shrines are dedicated to the Trimurti Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva and one cave on the third level houses a huge, beautiful statue of reclining Vishnu while seated deities and animals stand guard out front. The caves, in their Hindu form, date to the 7th century, but they re thought to have been constructed for Buddhist monks 500 years earlier. Bus 301 ( 9, 20 minutes) goes here.

In the last decade, with the rise of Hyderabad s west side our aged princess s sexy and popular granddaughter a new decadence parks highway alaska has emerged. Cyberabad , with Bengaluru parks highway alaska (Bangalore) and Pune, is the seat of India s mighty software dynasty and generates

Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC; %24-hr info 23450444; www.aptdc.in; h7am-8.30pm) Bashirbagh (Map p898 ; %23298456; parks highway alaska NSF Shakar Bhavan, opposite Police Control Room); Secunderabad (Map p896 ; %27893100; Yatri Nivas Hotel, Sardar parks highway alaska Patel Rd); Tankbund Rd (Map p898 ; %65581555; h10.30am-5pm) Organises tours.

frank farry Tirumala Link buses have two bus stands in Tirupathi: next to the main bus stand and outside the tra

1 Sights Undavalli Cave Temples HINDU SITE (Indian/ foreigner 5/100; h8am-5.30pm) Four kilometres southwest of Vijayawada, these stunning cave temples cut a fi ne silhouette against the palm trees and rice paddies. Shrines are dedicated to the Trimurti Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva and one cave on the third level houses a huge, beautiful statue of reclining Vishnu while seated deities and animals stand guard out front. The caves, in their Hindu form, date to the 7th century, but they re thought to have been constructed for Buddhist monks 500 years earlier. Bus 301 ( 9, 20 minutes) goes here.

Society To Save Rocks WALKING (%23552923; www.saverocks.org; frank farry 1236 Rd No 60, Jubilee Hills) frank farry This NGO organises monthly walks through the Andhran landscape and its surreal-looking boulders. Check website for details.

Tirumala Link buses have two bus stands in Tirupathi: next to the main bus stand and outside the train station. The scenic 18km trip to Tirumala takes one hour ( 54 return); if you don t mind heights, sit on the left side for views. A prepaid taxi is 350.

new york city water taxi The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden

Haritha new york city water taxi Hotel HOTEL $$ (%2562333; Beach Rd, Appughar; r incl breakfast from 900; a) This APTDC hotel, formerly Punnami, is near Kailasagiri Hill and right across from the beach. The lowest-priced rooms (with no views) are only so-so; bump yourself up if you can. Checkout is 10am.

The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden, where temple new york city water taxi sculptures from around the state (dating from the 3rd century AD) line shady paths, is lovely.

clinton ferry schedule Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal

Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal at Shadab and you ll be forever under its spell. The hopping restaurant clinton ferry schedule is the place to get biryani ( 95 to 200) and, during Ramzan (Ramadan), haleem. It has even mastered veg biryani (!) and hundreds of other veg and non-veg delights (if you try the chocolate

Andhra plays hard to get: its charms are subtle. But if you look closely, you ll find a long, fascinating history of arts, culture, spiritual scholarship and religious clinton ferry schedule harmony. In Hyderabad s Old City, Islamic monuments, Persian-inspired architecture and the call of the muezzin speak of the city s unique heritage.

Down the hill and 3km to the right is the small Siddheshwara clinton ferry schedule Temple. The Bhadrakali Temple, featuring a stone statue of Kali seated with a weapon in each of her eight hands, is high on a hill between Hanamkonda and Warangal.

To get here, take a Puttaparthi-Bengaluru bus and alight at Kodakonda Checkpost ( 40). From there, clinton ferry schedule take a Hindupur-bound bus ( 14) or an autorickshaw ( 250 return) to Lepakshi. A private car from Puttaparthi is 1000. You can also go from Hindupur, a main stop on the Puttaparthi-Bengaluru clinton ferry schedule train line, which has a few hotels. It s 11km from the temple.

hoboken ferry terminal 1 Sights Undavalli Cave Temples HINDU SITE (Indian/ foreigner 5/100; h8am-5.30pm) Four kilometres so

Warangal was the capital of the Kakatiya kingdom, which covered the greater part of present-day Andhra Pradesh from the late 12th to early 14th centuries until it was conquered by the Tughlaqs of Delhi. The Hindu Kakatiyas were great builders and patrons of Telugu literature and arts, and during their reign the Chalukyan hoboken ferry terminal style of temple architecture reached its pinnacle.

Autorickshaw Flag fall is 12 for the first kilometre, then 7 for each additional kilometre. Between 10pm and 5am a 50% surcharge applies. Unfortunately, the new electronic meters often don t work and lots of drivers won t use them: be prepared to negotiate.

1 Sights Undavalli Cave Temples hoboken ferry terminal HINDU SITE (Indian/ foreigner 5/100; h8am-5.30pm) Four kilometres southwest of Vijayawada, these stunning cave temples cut a fi ne silhouette against the palm trees and rice paddies. Shrines are dedicated hoboken ferry terminal to the Trimurti Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva and one cave on the third level houses a huge, beautiful statue of reclining Vishnu while seated deities and animals stand guard out front. The caves, in their Hindu form, date to the 7th century, but they re thought to have been constructed for Buddhist monks 500 years earlier. Bus 301 ( 9, 20 minutes) goes here.

Vijay Vihar Complex HOTEL $$ (%277362; fax 276633; r with AC from 1800; as) Two kilometres up the hill from the bus stand is the fancy government hoboken ferry terminal hotel overlooking the lake. Room balconies have excellent views.

ferry to vallejo Hyderabad s scene is growing, but drinking establishments are limited by an 11.30pm curfew law. Unle

Hyderabad s scene is growing, but drinking establishments are limited by an 11.30pm curfew law. Unless stated otherwise, the following bars are open to 11.30pm (but don t get going till 9pm). All serve food and charge covers ferry to vallejo ( 500 to 1000) on certain nights for couples, that is: guys usually need a gal to enter. Beer starts at 150, cocktails at 300.

Masala INDIAN $$ (Signature Towers, ferry to vallejo 1st fl, Asilmetta; mains 60-180; h11.30am-3.30pm & 7-11pm) Near Sampath Vinayaka Temple, Masala does out-of-this-world Andhra, tandoori and Chinese. Try the chepa pulusu (Andhrastyle fish; 130).

910 STATE OF GOOD KARMA In its typically understated way, Andhra Pradesh doesn t make much of its vast archaeological and karmic wealth. But the state is packed with impressive ruins of its rich Buddhist history. Only a few of Andhra s 150 stupas, monasteries, caves and other sites have been excavated, turning up rare relics of the Buddha (usually pearl-like pieces of bone) with offerings such as golden flowers. Nagarjunakonda and Amaravathi were flourishing Buddhist complexes, and near Visakhapatnam were the incredibly peaceful sites of Thotlakonda, and Bavikonda and Sankaram, looking across seascapes and lush countryside. ferry to vallejo They speak of a time when Andhra Pradesh or Andhradesa was a hotbed of Buddhist activity, when monks came from around the world to learn from some of the tradition ferry to vallejo s most renowned teachers. Andhradesa s Buddhist culture, in which sangha (community of monks and nuns), laity and statespeople all took part, lasted around 1500 years from the 6th century ferry to vallejo BC. There s no historical evidence for it, but some even say that the Buddha ferry to vallejo himself visited the area. Andhradesa s first practitioners were likely disciples of Bavari, an ascetic who lived on the banks of the Godavari River and sent his followers north to bring back the Buddha s teachings. But the dharma really took off in the 3rd century BC under Ashoka, who dispatched monks across his empire to teach and construct stupas enshrined with relics of the Buddha. (Being near these was thought to help progress on the path to enlightenment.) Succeeding Ashoka, the Satavahanas and then Ikshvakus were also supportive. At their capital at Amaravathi, the Satavahanas adorned Ashoka s modest stupa with elegant decoration. They built monasteries ferry to vallejo across the Krishna Valley and exported the dharma through their sophisticated maritime network. It was also during the Satavahana reign that Nagarjuna lived. Considered by many to be the progenitor of Mahayana Buddhism, the monk was equal parts logician, philosopher and meditator, and he wrote several ground-breaking works that shaped contemporary Buddhist thought. Other important monk-philosophers would emerge from the area in the following centuries, making Andhradesa a sort of Buddhist motherland of the South. 1 Sights Fort FORT (Indian/foreigner 5/100; h9am-6.30pm) Warangal s fort was a massive construction with three distinct circular ferry to vallejo strongholds surrounded by a moat. Four paths with decorative gateways, set according to the cardinal points, led to the Swayambhava, a huge Shiva temple. The gateways ferry to vallejo are still obvious, but most of the fort is in ruins. It s easily reached from Warangal by bus or autorickshaw ( 200 return). Admission includes entry to nearby Kush Mahal, a 16th century royal hall with artefacts on display.

horseshoe bay beacon Meena Bazar CLOTHING (Map p898; www.meenabazarhyd.co.in; Tilak Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Gorgeous

Only a couple of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; h8am-5pm), 14km west of Tirupathi. Both the Rani Mahal and the Raja Mahal, which houses a small museum (h10am-5pm Sat-Thu), were constructed under Vijayanagar rule and resemble structures in Hampi s Royal Centre. There s a nightly sound-and-light show (admission 35; h8pm Mar-Oct, 7.30pm Nov-Feb), narrated by Bollywood great Amitabh Bachchan. Buses for Chandragiri ( 10) leave Tirupathi bus station every half-hour. An autorickshaw is 200 return.

Meena Bazar CLOTHING (Map p898; www.meenabazarhyd.co.in; Tilak Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Gorgeous saris, salwar (trouser) horseshoe bay beacon suits and fabrics at fixed prices. Also has a branch in Banjara Hills (Map p902).

grimaldi Non-ashram options include the clean and simple Sai Surya Guest House (%288134; Gopuram Rd, 1st Cros

Non-ashram grimaldi options include the clean and simple Sai Surya Guest House (%288134; Gopuram Rd, 1st Cross; r from 350), and the excellent-value Sri Sai Sadan (Meda s Guest House; %287507; srisaisadan@gmail. com; Gopuram Rd; r from 810; a), near Venugopalaswamy Temple, with a roof garden and spacious rooms with fridges and balconies.

Nehru Centenary Tribal Museum MUSEUM grimaldi (Map p902; Masab Tank; Indian/foreigner 10/100; h10.30am-5pm Mon-Sat) Andhra Pradesh s 33 tribal groups, based mostly in the northeastern part of the state, comprise several

blackbirds sayville The Vizag area s natural harbours have long been conducive to dropping anchor, which helped monks fr

C Courses Dhamma Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation Centre; %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers blackbirds sayville intensive 10-day vipassana meditation courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.

oTaj Mahal Hotel (Himayathnagar) HOTEL $$ (off Map p898; %27637836-9; tajcafe@gmail.com; Himayathnagar; s/d from 900/1200; aW) Despite its unfortunate location in front of an overpass on Himayathnagar Rd, the Taj is a peaceful, sunny, stylish place where the staff are warm and welcoming and the hallway floors look like Jaipuri marble. Rooms are surprisingly tasteful, with sleek lamps and chunky, contemporary wooden furniture. Comfy and classy for less than the going rate makes this a great choice.

The Vizag area s natural harbours have long been conducive to dropping anchor, which helped monks from Sri Lanka, China and Tibet come here to learn and practice meditation. Bavikonda (h9am-6pm) and Thotlakonda (h10am-3pm) were popular hilltop monasteries on the coast that hosted up to 150 monks at a time with the help of massive rainwater tanks and, at Thotlakonda, a natural spring.

If you re pressed for time, APTDC runs three-day tours ( 1950) to Tirumala from Hyderabad. KSTDC (p 849 ) and TTDC (p 998 ) offer the same from Bengaluru and Chennai, respectively. APTDC also has a full-day tour ( 340) of temples in the Tirupathi area.

the port harwich Boats depart every month-ish for Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Bookings for the 56hour journey

Boats depart every month-ish for Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Bookings for the 56hour journey (from 1960) can be made at the Shipping Office (%2565597, 9866073407; Av Bhanoji Row; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) in the port complex. Bring your passport.

Vizag s train station is on the western edge of town, near the port. Visakhapatnam Junction station is on the Kolkata-Chennai line. The overnight Coromandel Express (sleeper/3AC/2AC 333/881/1199, 13 hours) is the fastest of the five daily trains running to Kolkata. Heading the port harwich south, it goes to Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 310/817/1112, 14 hours). Frequent trains head to Vijayawada including the port harwich 2717, the Ratnachalam Express (2nd-class/chair 108/477).

Abids Area Sights the port harwich 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. B3 Shopping the port harwich Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative the port harwich Assembly. A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 the port harwich 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating the port harwich 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. the port harwich A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. the port harwich (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. (see 12) Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. the port harwich A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information the port harwich 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 the port harwich Eating 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. (see 12)

Hyderabad the port harwich owes its existence to a water shortage at Golconda the port harwich in the late 16th century. The reigning Qutb Shahis were forced to relocate, and so Mohammed Quli and the royal family abandoned Golconda Fort for the banks of the Musi River. The new city of Hyderabad was established, with the brand- new Charminar as its centrepiece.

cairnryan Launches ( 90, one hour) depart from Vijayapuri, on the banks of Nagarjuna Sagar, at 9.30am, 11am an

(%2856330; www.saipriyabeachresorts.com; cottages/r from 700/1300; ais) Boasting a prime position right on Rushikonda beach, Sai Priya offers either modern rooms, some with sea views, or more rustic bamboo and cane cottages which have more of a beachy feel. The grounds are lush and almost really beautiful but, like the rest of the place, they fall short of their potential. Also, checkout s a rude 8am. Guests and nonguests can use the pool for two hours for 100.

Down the hill and 3km to the right is the small Siddheshwara Temple. The Bhadrakali Temple, featuring a stone statue of Kali seated with a weapon in each of her eight hands, is high on a hill between Hanamkonda and Warangal.

Launches ( 90, one hour) depart from Vijayapuri, on the banks of Nagarjuna cairnryan Sagar, at 9.30am, 11am and 1.30pm, and stay for one hour. To do the place justice, take the morning launch out and the afternoon one back. Extra morning launches usually run on weekends and holidays. Fisherman out in their dish-shaped coracle boats provide good photographic cairnryan material.

HEH the Nizam s Museum MUSEUM (Purani Haveli; Map p900; adult/student 70/15, camera 150; h10am-5pm Sat-Thu) The 16th-century Purani cairnryan Haveli was home of the sixth nizam, Fath Jang Mahbub Ali Khan (r 1869 1911), rumoured to have never worn the same garment twice. His 72m-long, two-storey Burmese teak wardrobe, cairnryan the first room you ll enter, certainly seems to substantiate the claim. In the palace s former servants quarters are personal effects of the seventh nizam, cairnryan Osman Ali Khan (1886 1967) and gifts from his Silver Jubilee, lavish pieces that include an art deco silver letterbox collection. The museum cairnryan s guides do an excellent job putting it all in context.

grimaldi lines Museum of Habitat (admission 10; h10am1pm & 2-5pm) with exhibits on indigenous life. APTDC runs tour

Museum of Habitat (admission 10; h10am1pm & 2-5pm) with exhibits on indigenous life. APTDC runs tours ( 500) from Vizag, which take in a performance of Dhimsa, a tribal dance, and the million-year-old limestone grimaldi lines Borra Caves (admission 40, camera 100; h10am-1pm & 2-5pm), 30km from Araku.

907BUSES grimaldi lines FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10 7 (evening) Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet 280 9 2 Mumbai grimaldi lines 550-985 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 6 hourly Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly and Kacheguda, which is convenient for Abids. See p908, for key routes. You can book at Hyderabad and Secunderabad stations from 8am to 8pm Monday to Saturday (to 2pm Sunday). Both stations have a tourist counter. For general enquiries, phone %139; for reservation status, %135.

ferry to canada ered in 1926 by archaeologist AR Saraswathi in the adjacent valley. In 1953, when it became known th

Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC; %24-hr info 23450444; www.aptdc.in; h7am-8.30pm) Bashirbagh (Map p898 ; %23298456; NSF Shakar ferry to canada Bhavan, opposite Police Control Room); Secunderabad ferry to canada (Map p896 ; %27893100; Yatri Nivas Hotel, Sardar Patel Rd); Tankbund Rd (Map p898 ; %65581555; h10.30am-5pm) Organises tours. ferry to canada

ered in 1926 by archaeologist AR Saraswathi in the adjacent valley. In 1953, when it became known that a massive hydroelectric project would soon create the Nagarjuna Sagar reservoir, flooding the area, a six-year excavation was launched to unearth the area s many Buddhist ruins: stupas, viharas (monasteries), chaitya-grihas (assembly halls with stupas) and mandapas (pillared pavilions), as well as some outstanding examples of white-marble depictions of the Buddha s life. The finds were reassembled on Nagarjunakonda.

Warangal, Hanamkonda and Kazhipet are sister towns. The Warangal train station and bus stand are opposite each other, and the post office and police station are on Station Rd. Main Rd connects Warangal and Hanamkonda. It can be easily visited as a day trip.

nc ferry routes Vizag s train station is on the western edge of town, near the port. Visakhapatnam Junction station

Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji nc ferry routes Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium nc ferry routes & Science Museum. B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee nc ferry routes Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 nc ferry routes 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. (see 12) Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 nc ferry routes 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. B3 Shopping nc ferry routes Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information nc ferry routes 7 Snow World.C1 nc ferry routes 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini nc ferry routes Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. nc ferry routes (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. (see 12)

Vizag s train station is on the western edge of town, near the port. Visakhapatnam Junction station is on the Kolkata-Chennai line. The overnight Coromandel Express (sleeper/3AC/2AC nc ferry routes 333/881/1199, 13 hours) is the fastest of the five daily trains running to Kolkata. Heading south, it goes to Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 310/817/1112, 14 hours). Frequent trains nc ferry routes head to Vijayawada including 2717, the Ratnachalam Express (2nd-class/chair 108/477).

puget sound ferry map Nowhere suits the term fit for royalty better than at the Falaknuma Palace, the former residence of

# # # # # # # # # f SR NAGAR AMEERPET BANJARA HILLS SOMAJIGUDA MASAB TANK SAIFABAD Hussain Sagar Banjara Lake KBR Park Jalagam puget sound ferry map Vengala Rao Park Chacha Nehru Park Ameerpet Rd Rd No 3 Panjagutta Rd Lakdi-ka-pul Rd Mahavir Marg RdNo 1 Rd No 2 Greenlands Rd Rd No 14 YellareddygudaRd RdNo 5 Rd No 13 Rd No 7 Rd No 10 AmeerpetRd Rd No 12 Balkampet Rd YousufgudaMain Rd Srinagar Colony Rd Necklace Rd Necklace Rd Train Station Khairatabad Train Station Begumpet Train Station Lakdikapul Train Station 20 19 18 12 14 5 10 6 9 8 15 17 2 13 11 1 16 7 3 4 Care Hospital 4

Vizag s well-organised RTC Complex (%2746400) has frequent bus services to Vijayawada (deluxe/Volvo 250/530, eight/seven hours) and, in the afternoon, Hyderabad ( superluxury / Volvo 470/870, 14/12 hours).

C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana Centre; %09440139329; www.nagajjuna.dhamma.org; Hill Colony) Keeping the legacy of Buddhism alive in the region, this centre offers intensive 10-day meditation courses in the grounds overlooking Nagarjuna Sagar. Courses are run on a donation basis.

Nowhere puget sound ferry map suits the term fit for royalty better than at the Falaknuma Palace, the former residence of the sixth nizam. Taking over a decade to restore, the Taj Group s latest luxury hotel has most certainly been worth the wait. The cheapest rooms have Italian marble floors, colonial furniture and great city views, while the Presidential Suite (an astounding 500,000 per night) was

palm island ferry Hotel Harsha HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %23201188; www.hotelharsha.net; Public Gardens Rd; s/d incl breakfa

898 ANDHRA PRADESH palm island ferry Kalakriti ART GALLERY (Map p 902 ; www.kalakriti.in; Rd No 10, Banjara Hills; h11am-7pm) Shrishti ART GALLERY (www.shrishtiart.com; Rd No 15, Jubilee Hills; h11am-7pm) palm island ferry C Courses Vipassana International Meditation Centre BUDDHIST MEDITATION (Dhamma Khetta; %24240290; www.khetta. dhamma.org; Nagarjuna Sagar Rd, 12.6km) The Vipassana International Meditation Centre has intensive 10-day meditation courses in its peaceful grounds 20km outside the city. Apply online or at the Hyderabad office (%24732569). A shuttle runs to/from Hyderabad on the fi rst and last day of courses. T Tours APTDC (p 906 ) tours the city ( 270), Ramoji Film City ( 600), Nagarjuna Sagar (weekends, 450) and Tirupathi/Tirumala (three days, 1950). The Sound & Light tour ( 200) takes in Hitec City, the botanic gardens and Golconda Fort s sound-and-light show, but you may spend much of it in traffi c. Tours leave from APTDC s Secunderabad branch (Map p 896 ) : : : : : : : 66 66 66 66 66 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 6 6 66 66 66 66 66 # R R # # # # # # # # # #

Puttaparthi is most easily reached from Bengaluru, 160km south; nine KSRTC buses (express/ Volvo 110/220, four hours) and eight trains (sleeper/3AC/2AC 133/323/420, three hours) head here daily. The KSRTC offi ce (%288938) is next to the bus station.

Hotel Harsha HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %23201188; www.hotelharsha.net; Public Gardens Rd; s/d incl breakfast from 1600/1800; aW) Rooms don t have tonnes of character, and can be noisy (ask for a rear facing room) but they re bright, have fridges, the furniture is in good taste and the art is a step up from the usual schlock. The overall effect is polished but comfy. The lobby smells like success, with lots of glass and marble. One of the city s best deals.

alaska ferries Birla Mandir & Planetarium HINDU TEMPLE, MUSEUM (Map p898) The Birla mandir (h7am-noon & 2-9pm), con

Hyderabad owes its existence to a water shortage at Golconda in the late 16th century. The reigning Qutb Shahis were forced to relocate, and so Mohammed Quli and the royal family alaska ferries abandoned Golconda Fort for the banks of the Musi River. The new city of Hyderabad was established, with the brand- new Charminar as its centrepiece.

Birla Mandir & Planetarium HINDU TEMPLE, MUSEUM (Map p898) The Birla mandir (h7am-noon & 2-9pm), constructed of white Rajasthani marble in 1976, graces Kalabahad alaska ferries (Black Mountain), one of two rocky hills overlooking the Hussain Sagar. Dedicated to Venkateshwara, the temple is a popular Hindu pilgrimage alaska ferries centre and affords excellent views over the city, especially at sunset. The library (h4- 8pm) here is worth a visit

Taj Mahal Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %24758250; tajmahal_abid@rediffmail. com; cnr Abids & King Kothi Rds; s/d with AC from 1200/1650; a) This rambling 1924 heritage building has a magnificent exterior, plants peppered about and decent, though ultimately overpriced rooms. Each is different so ask to see a few: the better ones have boudoirs, crystal-knobbed armoires and wood-beam ceilings.

southeast alaska discovery center Taj Mahal Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %24758250; tajmahal_abid@rediffmail. com; cnr Abids & King Kothi

Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati southeast alaska discovery center Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping southeast alaska discovery center 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. southeast alaska discovery center C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. southeast alaska discovery center B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. (see 12) Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 southeast alaska discovery center 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. southeast alaska discovery center (see 12)

Taj Mahal Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %24758250; tajmahal_abid@rediffmail. com; cnr Abids & King Kothi Rds; s/d with AC from 1200/1650; a) This rambling 1924 heritage building has a magnificent exterior, plants peppered about and decent, though ultimately southeast alaska discovery center overpriced rooms. Each is different so ask to see a few: the better ones have boudoirs, crystal-knobbed armoires and wood-beam ceilings.

In the last decade, with the rise of Hyderabad s west side our aged princess s sexy and popular granddaughter a new decadence has emerged. Cyberabad , with Bengaluru (Bangalore) and Pune, is the seat of India s mighty software dynasty and generates

ludington property management 902 ANDHRA PRADESH chicken or pineapple mutton, let us know how it goes). Packed with Old City famil

902 ANDHRA PRADESH ludington property management chicken or pineapple mutton, let us know how it goes). Packed with Old City families and good vibes. Kamat Hotel INDIAN $ (Map p 896 ; SD Rd, Secunderabad; mains 45-75; h7am-10pm) How much do we love Kamat Hotel? Words can t say. Each Kamat is slightly diff erent, but they re all cheap and good. There are two branches on SD Rd; the others are in Saifabad and on Nampally ludington property management Station Rd (Map p 898 ). Meals (from 36) are reliably delish. Kamat Andhra Meals INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Troop Bazaar; meals from 45; hnoon- 4pm & 7-11pm) Excellent authentic Andhra meals on banana leaves, topped up till you almost faint with pleasure, and fi nished off with a banana. Its sister restaurants in the same compound Kamat Jowar Bhakri (Maharashtran), Kamat Restaurant with air-con ludington property management (North and South Indian) and Kamat Coffee Shop are likewise friendly family joints full of happy diners. No relation to Kamat Hotel. Also recommended: Paradise Persis Restaurant INDIAN $$ (Map p 896 ; cnr SD & MG Rds, Secunderabad; mains 125-245; h11.30am-11pm) Ask any Hyderabadi about biryani, and they ll mention Paradise. Mozamjahi Market MARKET $ (Map p 900 ; cnr Mukarramjahi & Jawaharlal Nehru Rds; h6am-6pm) A great place to buy fruit and vegies (or ice cream), while enjoying the alluring architecture of the stone building, commissioned by the seventh nizam and named after his son. Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Hanuman Tekdi Rd; mains 45-110; hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm) Always busy, Papaji s has profoundly delicious veg and non-veg biryanis, curries and tikkas. Watch the : : : : : : : : 6 6 1

Another Buddhist site 10km from the launch point is the peaceful Anupu with remains of a stupa, university and amphitheatre; ludington property management likewise relocated piece by piece prior to the construction of the dam. A tree here was planted by the Dalai Lama during his visit in 2006.

seattle ferry prices B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O

B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) seattle ferry prices Machilipatnam (Madras) Hanamkonda Bhongir Bengaluru Ramatirtham Guntupalli Bhattiprolu seattle ferry prices Chandavaram seattle ferry prices Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli Penukonda Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai Bidar Nanded Kakanida (Bangalore) Bheemunipatnam Anantapur Puttaparthi Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle seattle ferry prices Vizianagaram Nellore Kurnool Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole Guntur seattle ferry prices Tirupathi seattle ferry prices Chittoor Secunderabad Warangal Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri Sagar Nagarjuna River Godavari Araku Valley CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda seattle ferry prices Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi seattle ferry prices Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad 0 200 km 0 100 miles B E N G A L B A Y O F N A D U T A M I L KARNATAKA M A H A R A S H T R A P R A D E S H M A D H Y A O D I S H A (Masulipatnam) Machilipatnam (Madras) Hanamkonda Bhongir Bengaluru Ramatirtham Guntupalli Bhattiprolu Chandavaram Chandragiri Vellore Kazhipet Nagarjunakonda Palampet Jagdalpur Kondagaon Medak Khamman Srisailam Kondapalli Penukonda seattle ferry prices Hindupur Sri Kalahasti Chennai Bidar Nanded Kakanida (Bangalore) Bheemunipatnam Anantapur Puttaparthi seattle ferry prices Dharmavaram Mahbubnagar Amaravathi Macherla Anakapalle Vizianagaram seattle ferry prices Nellore Kurnool Adoni Guntakal Gooty Cuddapah Rajahmundry Eluru Vijayawada Tenali Ongole Guntur Tirupathi Chittoor seattle ferry prices Secunderabad Warangal Nizamabad Wildlife Sanctuary Pakhal RiverPenneri Sagar Nagarjuna River Godavari Araku Valley CoastCoromandel Borra RiverKrishna Kirandul 4 7 4 18 18 5 9 9 7 Bavikonda Thotlakonda Sankaram Araku Lepakshi Visakhapatnam Tirumala Hyderabad 0 200 km 0 100 miles

If you re pressed for time, APTDC runs three-day tours ( 1950) to Tirumala from Hyderabad. KSTDC (p 849 ) and TTDC (p 998 ) offer the same from Bengaluru and Chennai, respectively. APTDC also has a full-day tour ( 340) of temples in the Tirupathi area.

From the 2nd century BC the Satavahana empire, also known as the Andhras, reigned throughout the Deccan plateau. It evolved from the Andhra people, whose presence in southern India may date back to 1000 BC. The Buddha s teaching took root here early on, and in the 3rd century BC the Andhras fully embraced it, building huge edifices in its honour. In the coming centuries, the Andhras would develop a fl ourishing civilisation that extended from the west to the east coasts of South India.

ferry crossing Submarine Museum MUSEUM ( Beach Rd, adult/child 25/15; h2-8.30pm Tue- Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 2-8.30pm S

Submarine Museum MUSEUM ( Beach Rd, adult/child 25/15; h2-8.30pm Tue- Sat, 10am-12.30pm & 2-8.30pm Sun) A fascinating opportunity to look inside the 91m-long Indian navy submarine. The soviet-built Kursura saw battle in 1971 during the Liberation War, (which saw India side with East Pakistan in their struggle for independence from Pakistan resulting ferry crossing in the birth of Bangladesh) and, exploring within, ferry crossing you ll find a fantastic jumble of knobs, switches, wires, valves, gauges, nuts, bolts and dials.

Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment Birla Modern Art Gallery. (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science Museum. B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. (see 12) Abids Area Sights 15 Sagar Papaji ferry crossing Ka Dhaba.C5 1 AP State Museum. B3 2 Birla Mandir. A2 Entertainment ferry crossing Birla Modern Art Gallery. ferry crossing (see 3) 16 Ravindra Bharati Theatre.A3 3 Birla Planetarium & Science ferry crossing Museum. B3 Shopping Birla Temple. (see 3) 17 Kalanjali.B3 4 Buddha Statue.B1 18 Lepakshi.B4 5 Health Museum. A3 19 Meena Bazar.B5 ICCR Art Gallery. (see 16) 6 Legislative Assembly. A3 Information 7 Snow World.C1 20 Apollo Pharmacy.C3 21 APTDC.B3 Sleeping 22 APTDC.B2 8 Hotel Harsha. B4 23 Care Hospital.B5 9 Hotel Mandakini Jaya 24 Indiatourism.C3 International. C5 10 Hotel Suhail. B5 Transport 11 Taj Mahal Hotel. B4 25 Air India.B3 26 AirAsia.B3 Eating ferry crossing 27 Boats to Buddha Statue. B1 12 Kamat Andhra Meals. B5 28 GSA Transworld Travels.B4 Kamat Coffee Shop. (see 12) Indian Airlines. (see 25) 13 Kamat Hotel. B4 29 IndiGo.B3 14 Kamat Hotel. A2 30 Jet Airways.B3 Kamat Jowar Bhakri. (see 12) 31 Neo Globe Tours & Travel.A3 Kamat Restaurant. (see 12)

Big Dosa Company INDIAN $ (Rd No 45, Jubilee Hills; dosas 75-135; h8am11pm) There s a lot that s big about this dosa joint: the portions, the taste and the very idea itself of a gourmet dosa. The feta cheese and roasted pepper dosa, served with sundried-tomato chutney or the shredded chicken dosa make the journey out to Jubilee ferry crossing Hills worthwhile.

magnetic island Andhra Pradesh won t hit you over the head with its attractions. It doesn t brag about its temples o

Andhra Pradesh won t hit you over the head with its attractions. It doesn t brag about its temples or its colourful magnetic island history. It s forgotten most of its palaces and royal architecture you ll have to purposely magnetic island seek them out.

The Hill of Nagarjuna, 150km southeast of Hyderabad, is a peaceful island in the middle of the Nagarjuna dam peppered with ancient Buddhist structures. From the 3rd century BC until the 4th century AD, the Krishna River valley was home to powerful empires that supported the sangha (Buddhist community of monks and nuns), including the Ikshvakus, whose capital was Nagarjunakonda. It s estimated that this area alone had 30 monasteries.

sandra seacat The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden

MAIN POINTS OF ENTRY Hyderabad s new Rajiv Gandhi International Airport is the main arrival point. sandra seacat The main train stations are Nampally and Secunderabad in Hyderabad; Imlibun is the interstate bus station. Visakhaptnam has monthly ferries leaving to Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Fast Facts

Just west of the bridge is the spectacular Osmania General Hospital (Map p900), on the north side, and, on the south, sandra seacat the High Court (Map p900) and Government City College (Map p900), all built under the seventh nizam in the Indo-Saracenic style.

1 Sights Undavalli Cave Temples HINDU SITE (Indian/ foreigner 5/100; h8am-5.30pm) Four kilometres southwest of Vijayawada, these stunning cave temples cut a fi ne silhouette against the palm trees and rice paddies. Shrines are dedicated to the Trimurti Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva and one cave on the third level houses a huge, beautiful statue of reclining Vishnu while seated deities and animals stand guard out front. The caves, in their Hindu form, date to the 7th century, but they re thought to have been constructed for Buddhist monks 500 years earlier. Bus 301 ( 9, 20 minutes) goes here.

The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden, where temple sculptures from around the state (dating from the 3rd century AD) line shady paths, is lovely.

new york city ferry FPaigah Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; Phisalbanda, Santoshnagar; h10am5pm Sat-Thu) The aristocratic Pai

Meena Bazar CLOTHING (Map p898; www.meenabazarhyd.co.in; Tilak Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Gorgeous saris, salwar (trouser) suits and fabrics new york city ferry at fixed prices. Also has a branch in Banjara Hills (Map p902).

# # # # f # # # SAIFABAD GUNFOUNDRY BASHIRBAGH HIMAYATHNAGAR HILL FORT HYDERGUDA KOTI HYDERABAD NAMPALLY Hussain Sagar Nizam College Grounds Lumbini Park Indira Gandhi Park Public Gardens NTR Gardens Bashirbagh Flyover Mukarramjahi Rd Public Gardens Rd Tankbund Rd Lakdi-ka-pulRd Chapel Rd Nampally StationRd Hill Fort Rd Raja Reddy Marg ChiragAli La JigarRd Secretariat Rd Indira new york city ferry Park Rd NTR Marg Koti Main Rd JNRd Himayathnagar Rd Tilak Rd King KothiRd Lower Tankbund Rd Bank St Abids Rd Ashok Nagar Rd Narayanguda Rd Sultan Bazar Rd Hyderguda Main Rd (Old MLA Quarters Rd) Naubat Pahar Kalabhad Hyderabad (Nampally) Train Station Prasad's Multiplex 2 31 30 28 6 13 12 15 14 17 18 19 16 27 1 5 7 3 4 8 10 11 9 23 20 24 25 22 21 29 26 5

FPaigah Tombs TOMBS (off Map p894; Phisalbanda, Santoshnagar; h10am5pm Sat-Thu) The aristocratic Paigah family, purportedly descendents of the second Caliph of Islam, were fierce loyalists of the nizams, serving as statespeople, philanthropists and generals under and alongside them. The Paigahs necropolis, tucked away in a quiet neighbourhood 4km southeast of Charminar, is a small compound of exquisite mausoleums made of marble from Agra and lime stucco. new york city ferry The main complex contains 27 tombs with intricate inlay work, surrounded by delicately carved walls and canopies, stunning filigree screens new york city ferry with geometric patterning and, overhead, tall, graceful turrets. The tombs are down a small lane across from Owasi Hospital. Look for the Preston Junior College sign. The Paigah new york city ferry Tombs ( 20) booklet is sold at the AP State Museum, but not here.

From the 2nd century BC the Satavahana empire, also known as the Andhras, reigned throughout the Deccan plateau. It evolved from the Andhra people, whose presence in southern India may date back to 1000 BC. The Buddha s teaching took root here early on, and in the 3rd century BC the Andhras fully embraced it, building huge edifices in its honour. In the coming centuries, the Andhras would develop a fl ourishing civilisation that extended from the west to the east coasts of South India.

savannah ferry C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana Centre; %09440139329; www.nagajjuna.

Secunderabad Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 savannah ferry Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis savannah ferry Restaurant.B2 Secunderabad savannah ferry Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 savannah ferry Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis Restaurant.B2

Good what s on guides include Channel 6 (www.channel6magazine.com), GO Hyderabad savannah ferry and City Info. The juiciest is Wow! Hyderabad (www.wowhyderabad.com; 25). The Deccan Chronicle is a good local paper; its Hyderabad savannah ferry Chronicle insert has info on happenings.

Vijayawada is on the main Chenna Kolkata and Chennai Delhi railway lines. The daily Coromandel Express (2841) runs to Chennai savannah ferry (sleeper/3AC/2AC 214/544/732, seven hours) and, the other way, to Kolkata (2842; sleeper/3AC/2AC 395/1054/1440, 20 hours). Speedy Rajdhani (Thursday and Saturday) and Jan Shatabdi (daily except Tuesday) trains also ply the Vijayawada Chennai route. Trains galore run to Hyderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 190/478/639, 6 hours) and Tirupathi (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The computerised advance-booking offi ce (%enquiry 2577775, reservations 2578955; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, till 2pm Sun) is in the basement.

C Courses Dhamma Nagajjuna MEDITATION (Nagarjunasagar Vipassana savannah ferry Centre; %09440139329; savannah ferry www.nagajjuna.dhamma.org; Hill Colony) Keeping savannah ferry the legacy of Buddhism alive in the region, this centre offers intensive 10-day meditation courses in the grounds overlooking Nagarjuna Sagar. Courses are run on a donation basis.

ferry to at&t park 907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10

Only a couple of buildings remain from this 15th-century fort (Indian/foreigner 10/100; h8am-5pm), 14km west of Tirupathi. Both the Rani Mahal and the Raja Mahal, which houses a small museum (h10am-5pm Sat-Thu), were constructed under Vijayanagar rule and resemble structures in Hampi s Royal Centre. There s a nightly sound-and-light show (admission 35; h8pm Mar-Oct, 7.30pm Nov-Feb), narrated by Bollywood great Amitabh Bachchan. Buses for Chandragiri ( 10) leave Tirupathi bus station every half-hour. An autorickshaw is 200 return.

907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION ferry to at&t park (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10 7 (evening) Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet 280 9 2 Mumbai 550-985 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 6 hourly Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly

Walking TTD has constructed probably the best footpath in India for pilgrims to walk up to Tirumala. It s about 15km from Tirupathi and takes four to six hours. Leave your luggage at the toll gate at Alipiri near the Hanuman statue. It will be transported free to the reception centre. At the time of research walking was prohibited from 4pm to 6am due to several leopard ferry to at&t park attacks on pilgrims. There are shady rest points along the way, and a few canteens.

fast from 1690/1790; aW) Under new management, the former budget Jaya International has reinvented ferry to at&t park itself as a smart and modern business hotel. Rooms are great value, comfortable and ultramodern. Its downside is the scungy hallways.

shelldock isle Secunderabad Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradi

Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC; %24-hr info 23450444; www.aptdc.in; h7am-8.30pm) Bashirbagh (Map p898 ; %23298456; NSF Shakar Bhavan, opposite Police Control Room); Secunderabad (Map p896 ; %27893100; Yatri Nivas Hotel, Sardar Patel Rd); Tankbund Rd (Map p898 ; %65581555; h10.30am-5pm) Organises tours.

Secunderabad Sleeping shelldock isle 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 shelldock isle 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis Restaurant.B2 Secunderabad shelldock isle Sleeping 1 Minerva Grand.C2 2 YMCA.B2 Eating 3 Kamat Hotel.C2 4 Kamat Hotel.B2 5 Paradise Persis Restaurant.B2

seastreak schedule The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden

Minerva Grand HOTEL $$$ (Map p 896 ; %66117373; www.minervagrand.com; SD Rd, Secunderabad; s/d incl breakfast seastreak schedule from 4000 /4400; aiW) It s rare to find a hotel that has genuine style; this place has nailed it. Standard rooms (one wheelchair-accessible) have striking deep-fuchsia walls, white furniture, tasselled bedspreads and piles of pillows. More-expensive rooms are also bold in design, and all rooms have hardwood floors, gentle lighting and sleek, spacious bathrooms. A diamond in the rough of Sarojini Devi Rd.

The interesting architecture outshines the museum s small collection of art and arms. But the garden, where temple sculptures from around the state (dating from the 3rd century AD) line shady paths, is lovely.

muskegon ferry 902 ANDHRA PRADESH chicken or pineapple mutton, let us know how it goes). Packed with Old City famil

902 ANDHRA PRADESH chicken or pineapple mutton, let us know how it goes). Packed with Old City families and good vibes. Kamat Hotel INDIAN $ (Map p 896 ; SD Rd, Secunderabad; mains 45-75; h7am-10pm) How much do we love Kamat Hotel? Words can t say. Each Kamat is slightly diff erent, but they re all cheap and good. There are two branches muskegon ferry on SD Rd; the others are in Saifabad and on Nampally Station Rd (Map p 898 ). Meals (from 36) are reliably delish. Kamat Andhra Meals INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Troop Bazaar; meals from 45; hnoon- 4pm & 7-11pm) Excellent authentic Andhra meals on banana leaves, topped muskegon ferry up till you almost faint with pleasure, and fi nished off with a banana. muskegon ferry Its sister restaurants in the same compound Kamat Jowar Bhakri (Maharashtran), Kamat Restaurant with air-con (North muskegon ferry and South Indian) and Kamat Coffee Shop are likewise friendly family joints full of happy diners. No relation to Kamat Hotel. Also recommended: Paradise Persis Restaurant INDIAN $$ (Map p 896 ; cnr SD & MG Rds, Secunderabad; mains 125-245; h11.30am-11pm) Ask any Hyderabadi about biryani, and they ll mention Paradise. muskegon ferry Mozamjahi Market MARKET $ (Map p 900 ; cnr Mukarramjahi & Jawaharlal Nehru Rds; h6am-6pm) A great place to buy fruit and vegies (or ice cream), muskegon ferry while enjoying the alluring architecture of the stone building, commissioned by the seventh nizam and named after his son. Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Hanuman Tekdi Rd; mains 45-110; hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm) muskegon ferry Always busy, Papaji s has profoundly delicious veg and non-veg biryanis, curries and tikkas. Watch the : : : : : : : : 6 6 1

Most buses and trains will stop en route at Bhongir, muskegon ferry 60km from Hyderabad. It s worth jumping down for a couple of hours to climb the fantastical-looking 12th-century Chalukyan hill fort (admission 3; h9am6pm). Looking like a gargantuan stone egg, the hill is mostly muskegon ferry ringed by stairs.

macau ferry terminal When he was 14, Sai Baba declared himself to be the reincarnation of another Sai Baba, a saintly fig

When he was 14, Sai Baba declared himself to be the reincarnation of another Sai Baba, a saintly figure who died in 1918 (p 764 ). His millions of devotees regarded him as a true avatar and believed he performed miracles. Coming for the program of darshan (here that meant seeing Baba though since poor health in 2005 his appearances were increasingly sporadic), they packed the ashram twice-daily macau ferry terminal for chanting and prayer. The sight of clean, well-paved streets lined with internet cafes might come as a surprise here, as will the prevalence of robed foreign devotees.

Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal at Shadab and you ll be forever under its spell. The hopping restaurant is the place to get biryani macau ferry terminal ( 95 to 200) and, during Ramzan (Ramadan), haleem. It has even mastered veg biryani macau ferry terminal (!) and hundreds of other veg and non-veg delights (if you try the chocolate

The bus stand has a helpful enquiry desk (%2522200). Frequent services run to Hyderabad (deluxe/Volvo 193/375, six to seven hours), Amaravathi ( 38, two hours), Warangal (deluxe 180, 5 hours) and Visakhapatnam (deluxe/Volvo 270/540, nine hours).

cross sound ferry new london Touch BAR (Map p902; %23542422; Trendset Towers, Rd No 2, Banjara Hills); h7pm-midnight Wed, Sat & S

Touch BAR (Map p902; %23542422; Trendset Towers, Rd No 2, Banjara Hills); h7pm-midnight Wed, Sat & Sun) Touch is all about image. It s a stylish, comfy place to watch the beautiful people. Also has an ice bar with temperatures set at -23.

New Andhra Hotel INDIAN $ (Sree Kanya Lodge, Bowdara Rd; mains 25-75; h11am-3.30pm & 7-10.30pm) An unassuming little place with really good, really hot Andhra dishes. Meals ( 50/130 for veg/ non-veg) and biryani are top-notch.

Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal at Shadab and you ll be forever under its spell. The hopping restaurant is the place to get biryani ( 95 to 200) and, during Ramzan (Ramadan), haleem. It has even mastered veg biryani (!) and hundreds of other veg and non-veg delights (if you try the chocolate

arnold ferry line drive into town. BUS Frequent public buses depart from the PTC for Jubilee and Imlibun stations. Mor

drive into town. BUS Frequent public buses depart from the PTC for Jubilee and Imlibun stations. More comfy are AC Aeroexpress (%18004192008; h24hr) buses ( 175), which run half-hourly to Charminar, Secunderabad, Begumpet, arnold ferry line Mehdipatnam and Hitec City.

Look for the 9m-long monolithic Nandi India s largest at the town s entrance. From here, you can see the temple s Naga-lingam (a phallic representation of Shiva) crowned with a seven-headed cobra. The temple is known for its unfinished Kalyana Mandapam (Marriage arnold ferry line Hall), depicting the wedding of Parvati and Shiva, and its Natyamandapa (Dance Hall), with carvings arnold ferry line of dancing gods. The temple s most stunning features, though, are the Natyamandapa s ceiling frescoes.

907BUSES FROM HYDERABAD DESTINATION FARE ( ) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY (DAILY) Bengaluru 480-775 12-10 7 (evening) Bidar 80 4 half-hourly Chennai 550-880 12-14 3 (evening) Hospet 280 9 2 Mumbai 550-985 14-12 6 (evening) Mysore 599 15 1 Nagarjuna Sagar 85-116 4 8 Tirupathi 435-735 12 12 Vijayawada 197-390 6 hourly Visakhapatnam 470-865 14 12 Warangal 77 3 half-hourly

bull island ferry Sankranti (Jan, statewide) This important Telugu festival marks the end of harvest season. Kite-flyi

Sankranti (Jan, statewide) This important Telugu festival marks the end of harvest season. Kite-flying abounds, women decorate their doorsteps with colourful kolams (or rangolis rice-flour designs), and men decorate cattle with bells and fresh horn paint.

# # # # f # # # SAIFABAD GUNFOUNDRY BASHIRBAGH HIMAYATHNAGAR HILL FORT HYDERGUDA KOTI HYDERABAD NAMPALLY Hussain Sagar Nizam College Grounds Lumbini Park Indira Gandhi Park Public Gardens NTR Gardens Bashirbagh Flyover Mukarramjahi Rd Public Gardens Rd Tankbund Rd Lakdi-ka-pulRd Chapel Rd Nampally StationRd Hill Fort Rd Raja Reddy Marg ChiragAli La JigarRd Secretariat Rd Indira Park Rd NTR Marg Koti Main Rd JNRd Himayathnagar Rd Tilak Rd King KothiRd Lower Tankbund Rd Bank St Abids Rd Ashok Nagar Rd Narayanguda Rd Sultan Bazar Rd Hyderguda Main Rd (Old MLA Quarters Rd) Naubat Pahar Kalabhad Hyderabad (Nampally) bull island ferry Train Station Prasad's Multiplex 2 31 30 28 6 13 12 15 14 17 18 19 16 27 1 5 7 3 4 8 10 11 9 23 20 24 25 22 21 29 26 5

vancouver to seattle ferry 1 Sights & Activities Beaches BEACH The long beaches of Waltair overlook the Bay of Bengal, with its

1 Sights & Activities Beaches BEACH The long beaches of Waltair overlook the Bay of Bengal, with its mammoth ships and brightly vancouver to seattle ferry painted fishing boats. Its coastal Beach Rd, lined with parks and weird sculptures, is great for long walks.

904 ANDHRA PRADESH KITSCHABAD Mixed in with Hyderabad s world-class sights, you ll find some attractions that err on the more quirky side; which can provide some good relief from the proper sightseeing. Ramoji Film City FILM STUDIO vancouver to seattle ferry (www.ramojifi lmcity.com; adult/child 500/450; h9.30am-5.30pm) The home of South India s burgeoning film industry, known as Tollywood, Ramoji Film City is undoubtedly the premier kitsch sight of Hyderabad. Set on more than 670 hectares, this is the world s largest movie-making complex, producing Telugu, Tamil, Hindi and the occasional vancouver to seattle ferry foreign film. Though you won t actually get to see any being made, the four-hour bus tour will take you through fl imsy film sets and gaudy fountains, stopping for dance routines and stunt shows. Located in the outskirts of town, around 20km from Abids, you can jump on bus 205 or 206 from Koti Women s College, northeast of Koti station, which take an hour to get here. Health Museum MUSEUM (Map p898; Public Gardens Rd, Nampally; admission free; h10.30am-5pm vancouver to seattle ferry Sat-Thu) A throwback to a 1950s classroom, this museum houses a bizarre collection of medical and public-health paraphernalia. It features a rather terrifying giant model of a crab louse. Snow World AMUSEMENT PARK (Map p898; Lower Tankbund; admission 300; h11am-8pm) The perfect place to escape the heat, Snow World is, hands down, the coolest attraction in town (in a literal sense, of course ). It s a bizarre vancouver to seattle ferry experience to suddenly find yourself in heavy-duty waterproof clothing amid people hurling snowballs, riding toboggans vancouver to seattle ferry and playing snow volleyball. There s a snowfall on the hour, accompanied by cheers, a snow disco and lightshow. Suddha Car Museum MUSEUM (www.sudhacars.net; Bahadurpura; Indian/foreigner 30/150; h9.30am-6.30pm) Featuring the genius work of Sudhakar, here you ll find working cars in the shape of a toilet, computer, cricket bat, hamburger or condom, among other wacky designs. He holds the Guinness world record for the largest tricycle, standing a whopping 12.8m tall. You can poke your head into the workshop to see his latest project (at the time of research it was a stiletto shoe car). It s located east of the Nehru Zoological Park. NTR Park PARK (Map p898; child/adult 10/20; h2.30-8.30pm) Making for a nice stroll vancouver to seattle ferry about, with pleasant gardens, theme park rides and a games arcade, taking the cake in the kitsch stakes is the gaudy restaurant shaped like a giant fruit bowl. Amurutha Castle HOTEL (www.bestwesternamruthacastle.com; Saifabad; d from 4800) Always dreamt of staying in a Bavarian castle while in Hyderabad? Probably not, but in case you did, this massive castle- hotel, based on the Schloss Neuschwanstein, is the place to do it. It ain t cheap though. 6 Drinking & Entertainment

sandra seacat Taj Mahal Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %24758250; tajmahal_abid@rediffmail. com; cnr Abids & King Kothi

drive into town. BUS Frequent public buses depart from the PTC for Jubilee and Imlibun stations. More comfy are AC Aeroexpress (%18004192008; h24hr) buses ( 175), which run half-hourly to Charminar, Secunderabad, Begumpet, Mehdipatnam and Hitec City.

Taj Mahal Hotel HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %24758250; tajmahal_abid@rediffmail. com; cnr Abids & King Kothi Rds; s/d with AC from 1200/1650; a) This rambling 1924 heritage building has a magnificent sandra seacat exterior, plants peppered about and decent, though ultimately overpriced rooms. Each is different so ask to see a few: the better ones have boudoirs, crystal-knobbed armoires and wood-beam ceilings.

If you re travelling sandra seacat around Andhra Pradesh during Ramadan (known locally as Ramzan), look out for the clay ovens called bhattis. You ll probably hear them before you see them. Men gather around, taking turns to vigorously pound haleem inside purpose-built structures. Come nightfall, the serious business of eating begins. The taste is worth the wait. In September 2010, this love of the dish was taken a step further, being patented as Hyderabadi haleem ; prohibited to be served under that name unless it meets the strict quality guidelines.

The best beach for swimming is at Rushikonda, 10km north of town, one of the nicest stretches of coast you ll fi nd this side of India. sandra seacat Weekends get busy and take on a carnival-like atmosphere. Surfers keen for a paddle can rent decent boards from local surf pioneer, Melville, at SAAP